After a week here...

I have been here for a week, and I feel like I'm starting to get a grip on this place. I can find my way via the MRT underground, I've got a mental map of the city so I am no longer getting lost, and I've even assumed the role of helping other tourists find their way and recommending good things to eat.

Yesterday, I did the walking tour of Kampong Glam, one of the oldest sections of the city and the heart of the Malay and Islamic communities. With our guide we visited a shop (owned and operated by a Hindu gentleman) that specializes in items a devout Muslim would need before embarking on the Haj, the required pilgrimage to Mecca. Here, you can get your prayer rug (with built-in plastic compass to point the way), your robe, your prayer beads (or electronic counter, if you're more modern), and your head covering. You can even book your travel here. Interestingly, each country with a Muslim population is allowed a "quota" of pilgrims to send. Singapore gets about 1,500 annually, Indonesia gets 200,000.

One of our tour asked the question: Would it be sacrilegious for an infidel to purchase a prayer rug and use it for decoration, such as a wall hanging? After some discussion between the owner of the shop and our guide, it was decided that it would be fine to do so, as long as the rug was not walked on or used inappropriately, such as a bathmat. But then, Guide Josephine said, "we say that it would be entirely acceptable, but you must remember, we are Singaporeans--I might not give the same answer in Indonesia or Iran or Saudi Arabia. We are used to being respectful and tolerant to each other, but I wouldn't try this in other countries!"

We also visited a shop where the traditional Malay proposal customs were explained and we learned how to wrap a sarong in the proper way for both men and women, and a perfume shop where you can have any scent you want concocted. We then took off our shoes and were allowed inside the Masjid Sultan Mosque (a first for me!), walked on to the former Malay palace and a very old cemetery, all the while hearing the history of the betrayals, usurpations of the throne, and Dutch and British manipulations of various royal rulers, all vying for control of strategic Singapore.

At the end of the tour, I led Janice from Reno and Paul from Melbourne, Australia to the Zum Zum restaurant, where we feasted on Roti Prata and about 4 litres of water. Janice (who is a quilter) and I spent the afternoon shopping in the textile shops on Arab Street, looking for bargains.

I loved this area of the city the best so far, I think. I find Chinatown (in preparation for Chinese New Year next week), and Little India both to be way too fast-paced and frenetic. Walking (or trying to push and shove through the crowds on the sidewalk) there really sets off my big-city anxiety. By contrast, Kampong Glam was like walking back in time, and once down a side alley, the noise of the traffic on Beach Road disappeared. The shopkeepers were friendly, but not pushy. And there were some real bargains for a change, so even shopping was fun.

I came home exhausted (again!), took a swim in the pool to cool off, then trekked over to the Washy-Washy to pick up Bill's work overalls while he was sleeping. I stopped in at a storefront spa on the way back to the hotel and got a 40-minute foot massage. Ahhhhhh!

When Bill awoke, we took a cab to Suntec City, had a chicken satay pizza and salad for dinner and then wandered down to the Pauliner Brew Pub, where we hoisted one and listened to the Filipino band.

Bill caught the bus to work at 11:15 pm, and I fell into a dreamless sleep.

This morning I called Seattle and talked to both Kerne and Juli--the hospital is going to discharge her in a few hours and they've moved her GI appointment up to next week (instead of late March). I'm hoping they can get her stabilized, diagnosed and fixed!